Part 4: Sevilla

20240507-10

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The Trip

We inverted part of our trip in that we had to taxi from Gibraltar to the border, walk across the border, and then get a taxi to the Algeciras train station.  From Algeciras we got the "slow train" to Seville.  The trip shot a whole day, but it was reasonably comfortable except for the last, very slow leg.  We got into the Santa Justa station and then got a short taxi ride to our hotel near the "center of the action" along the Guadalquivir River at the Triana Bridge.  We stayed at the Bequer Hotel, which was very nice.  We stayed at this hotel on one of our previous trips to Seville.

For good or bad, the weather was quite hot.  A far cry from what we had in Grenada.  Personally, I prefer hot to cold, so it was OK. The only sad news in all of this is that I got some bad seafood on the second night which took me out for the following day.  And, I felt marginal for the day after that.  These things are what I call normal traveler risks.  But while I was functional, we got a chance to explore the city on foot.

The photos below are what we saw.


We headed out on foot from the hotel and we passed this bar that made me laugh.  The name is "Alfonso, the king of the snails".


The hotel was very close to the Plaza del Toros (bull ring) which is right on the river.

Bullfights are the heart and soul of Spain and they idolize famous toreadors.  This statue is outside the ring on the street.

Tour boats were running on the river and the only requirement was that you were willing to pony up the bucks for the ride.



Steve and Kathleen pose next to the river.  In the background is Seville's tallest structure and the Triana bridge in the foreground.

It was starting to get uncomfortably hot, so forced smiles are in order.

Tour boats of all kinds were cruising the river.

This monstrosity is a new addition to the waterfront since our last visit.  This was intended to be a replica of Columbus' flag ship the Nina.  Hard to imagine sailing across the Atlantic in one of these small ships.

This is is the Torre del Oro.  It was a watchtower used to enforce taxes on river traffic.

A tasteful, new fountain near the river.

The older buildings along the river were quite ornate.  There was a pause in the crowds when I took this photo, so it is not really representative of the congestion at the time.  There were tons of folks out on foot.

An older, more ornate fountain in one of the plazas.

I was very impressed by the detailed brickwork in this building.  I took a number of photos of it, but had to cull the set down so this is the only one that prevailed.  Note the tile inlays over the windows and the brick arches.

Our walking path took us to the Catedral de Sevilla, the main "old" cathedral in the city.  The lines to enter were long and we had seen the inside on a previous trip, so we elected to pass.  The outside was ornate beyond any reasonable level.

This is just a small part of the cathedral.  By the end of our tour we would walk around the perimeter.

The architecture was rather "mixed mode" and consisted of the influence of several periods, likely due to the fact that the structure took hundreds of years to build.

Ornate spires and adornments decorated the outside of the cathedral.

The majority of the long line waiting to enter was not visible in the photo above, but it was substantial.  Note the large statue on in the entrance foyer.

I was surprised to see the double crosses at the apex of the dome.  I normally associate that with Orthodox Catholic, of which this cathedral was not.

The main tower was tall, ornate and impressive with a large apex statue.

The far side of the cathedral was just as impressive.

These adornments were clearly from a different era.  Note the flying buttress at the top of the photo above.

I believe that this gargoyle is actually a rain gutter spout.

The far side of the cathedral had heraldic crests which were intricate.

The center of a nearby plaza had an imposing plinth topped by a detailed carved statue.

Very close to the Catholic cathedral was the Alcazar de Sevilla.  This was the Moorish seat of power during their rule of the area.  Again, the lines were substantial and we had visited the Alcazar during a previous trip, so we passed on the opportunity.

A more recent sculpture with lighting atop a fountain.

This tower was initally constructed by the Moors and then co-opted by the Catholics after their conquest of Andulsia.

The lower windows show the Moorish architecture influence.  The small arch with the statue was added later as a retrofit.

Detailed, ornate carvings above the portals are clearly Moorish.



We were hungry so we headed off to find a restaurant.  Our path took us along a narrow street with one-way traffic coming at us.  The heavy traffic and very narrow sidewalks made us uncomfortable, but we got to our destination without incident.




We had a great lunch and started back to our hotel through Plaza Nuevo and passed this building.



On the other side of the plaza were more ornate buildings.  But, it was hot and siesta time, so the streets were essentially deserted.



Sevilla has a good trolley system that runs past critical areas in town.  The area around Plaza Nueva has two tracks.  Note the cool building on the right.



Once siesta comes in the heat of the afternoon, the streets get quiet

Sevilla is super-cool place and should you plans include a trip to the area, plan to stay at least 5 days.  There is plenty to see and do.  Beware that the summers in Andulsia are daunting and the heat during the afternoon can be opressive.  Plan to find a bar or hide in the shadows until sundown.  The town comes alive after 2000 and plenty of restaurants don't even open until then.

Next: get a rental car and head west toward Portugal.

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