Part 1: Alhambra Pt. 1

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The Experience

We made extensive travel plans to bring this trip to fruition.  As a side note, we had 3 flight legs to get us to Grenada: San Diego -> Miami; Miami -> Madrid; Madrid -> Grenada.  It took us about 24 hours and it was cold and raining when we arrived.  Due to the flight connections, we arrived at around 1000 local time and our check-in time at the hotel was 1400.  So, we sat in the hotel cafe for hours awaiting room availability.  Such are the risks of extended flights.  All our bags arrived on time, but we did suffer some trauma having to recheck bags for in-country flights from intercontinental flights.  Hassles, but we previailed with minutes to spare before the final flight from Madrid to Granada.

The cornerstone of the trip was a visit to the Alhambra since we missed it last time due to our ignorance about multi-month lead times for tickets.  So, to insure that this did not happen again, we booked well in advance and paid substantial fees for a guide.  Sadly, the guide decided to bring the start time of the tour FORWARD by several hours with minimal notice, thus insuring that we paid our fees but didn't receive any value for said fees.  I would surely not recommend that guide group to anyone.  The only happy ending was that we did get to see the critical part of the Alhambra (closely controlled by the site) despite the guide jacking us around.  The photos below tell the story.


The Photos

The photos below are what we saw.

Kathleen attempted to get us a room at the Parador, but they were fully booked for the dates of interest.  So, we did the next best thing and got the smaller, more modest place next door.  There were only two hotels at the Alhambra, and this was "the other one".  Good job Kathleen.  The day after the rain dawned clear and warm-ish.

We had a down day before our scheduled tour, so to help get us on local time and crush the jet lag, we headed out.  This church was part of the "new" additions to the Alhambra after the Catholics took over the site.

The cathedral was impressive in its stone work, although only medium-scale compared to some churches in the area.

A spotted this small piece of construction equipment used for constrained places.  This is a combined scoop and dump bucket.

Since this was our first full day in country and in this time zone, we elected to hike into the town of Grenada for breakfast.  Other than the two hotels at the top (ours and the Parador) the only other food service is down the hill in town.  The photo above shows one of the entrance gates to the Alhambra palace.

  We walked down from the substantial heights of the Alhambra to the entrance portal.  The city of Grenada lies past the gate.

Beyond the gate, the streets were narrow and steep.  Since it was relatively early, the city and its tourists were just coming to life.

  We got to the base of the hill and the street dumped us into the Plaza Nuevo.  It turns out that we stayed at the Macia Plaza Hotel during our last visit.

We had a light breakfast in a cafe on Plaza Nuevo.  We decided that we would head to the Madrassa (Islamic School) but discovered that there had been few changes to the school since its creation.  The Moslem influence was essentially overwritten by the Catholics and icons were installed on the walls.

The rooms that had, on our previous visit, been open to the public had been cordoned off.  But, despite these changes, the beautiful carvings were still visible.

Across the street from the Madrassa was a large cathedral, complete with religious graffiti.  The crowds were mounting as the day wore on.

We stepped into the cathedral for a look.  Some of the artifacts were quite stunning.

A lot of time and effort was spent on these adornments.

I have no idea who this fellow was, but he must have been important.

Most cathedrals that we visited display this kind of iconography.

Moving from the historical to the current, we came upon this statue in one of the plazas near the church.  We stopped for tapas and wine at a nearby restaurant.  Both the tapas and wine were excellent and reasonably priced.

The sidewalk cafe culture is very much alive and well in Granada.

The streets in Granada are very narrow and motorcycles are a favorite method of transportation.  Special parking areas were created for the bikes.

The whole tour thing degraded into a giant cluster-fuck that wasted several hours and resulted in nothing but overhead for us.  Moving on, we did gain entrance to the Alhambra and started exploring.  Above is one of the many ponds fed by water from the acequia (aquaduct) that comes from the high Sierra Nevada mountains to the east.

There are a number of areas in the Alhambra that are still being excavated as part of ongoing archeological efforts.  Above, some folks are managing the dig site.

Heading through one of the many gates in the Alhambra.

We waited in substantial lines but did finally gain entrance to the main Nazari Palace.  We could see large groups of folks over on the Alcazaba side that were enjoying the view of Granada, Sacramonte and Albecin.

One of the many buildings in the Nazari Palace.

We waited in substantial lines but did finally gain entrance to the main Nazari Palace are and got nice, close-up views of the carved alabaster walls.  The detail of these carvings are incredible.


The level of complexity and detail in these expansive carvings is truly remarkable.

The blue tints have essentially faded, but despite that fact, this is an impressive work of art.


One of the central gardens of the palace had a reflecting pool.  Note that the tower walls are reaching a state of disrepair.  Maintenance on something as old and large as the Alhambra is a daunting task.

More intricate carvings and arches.


It is clear that the face of this tower has been re-worked many times over the intervening centuries.  Archways have been bricked-in and beams have been replaced.  Surface coatings have failed and will need to be re-done.

This arched ceiling has been "overwritten" with Catholic iconography.


Intricate carvings adorn the archways.

The scope and detail of the carvings in the palace are almost overwhelming.


These arches and columns surround a central courtyard with an intricate carved fountain.


The lions in the fountain are individually unique and are carved out of marble.

This portion of the Alhambra grounds, the Nazari Palace, was the busiest and most heavily traveled of any of the sites on the grounds.  Entrance to the palace was linked to a specified time and you were prevented from entering earlier by the guards.  We were lucky that we got the correct tickets despite the guide-schedule SNAFU.

Next, part 2 of the Alhambra experience.

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