Part 22: Cottonwood Canyon, UT to San Diego, CA

20211012-16

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The Trip

It was cold as a result of the "rain storm".  It was not until a few days later that we discovered that the storm was way bigger than predicted and had brought over 6 inches of snow to the higher areas (like Kanab, UT).  We had a comfortable night, but awoke several times due to the noise of the rain on the roof of the Lance.  Once we were up and dressed, we went outside and discovered much to our dismay that camping in the canyon was probably not the best overall decision.

The Photos

The photos below are what we saw.

Once I was dressed and out of the camper, it became apparent that the situation was a bit more dire than we had predicted.  The snow was not on our menu and we were surprised, if not a bit disturbed by the sight.

To the west across the Paria River, the cliffs were dusted with snow.

Getting out of our camping area was a challenge.  The soil in the area was rich with thick, sticky clay-based mud.  We slipped and slid, even in 4x4, and managed to pass our first obstacle for the day with no real issues.  We bypassed the side creek with no problems other than a tight sphincter.

The Paria River was a mere trickle the night before.  It was now flowing strong.

This obstacle was unavoidable.  The soft, clay-based terrain presented a potential hazard.  If we were to get stuck in the crossing and more rain were to come, it would be a bad outcome.  There was a significant drop-off to the right of the berm on the trail.  I used my shovel to carve a drain on the right and managed to eliminate most of the standing water in the trail.  That said, the road was still super soft and slick.  I got Thor in the correct configuration (4x4, low range, differential locked) and we passed without issue.

This seemingly innocuous spot brought us to a halt.  I tried twice and then gave up.  For every foot we went up, we slid 6 inches sideways toward the cliff.  We finally ended up with our right rear wheel in danger of going over.

A cowboy proverb states "when you find yourself in a hole, it is best to stop digging".  So, armed with that wisdom, we dismounted and assessed the situation.  This grade is rather steep, perhaps 15% or so.  That, itself, would not present a problem.  But, the terrain is Tropic Shale which is slick as snot when wet.

Thor's large tires did a good job of turning the bottom of the hill into porridge.

I took the camera up the hill with me and it was an treacherous walk indeed.  I almost lost my balance several times and by the time I got to where this photo was taken, my shoes were each several pounds heavier due to the accumulated clay mud.

The top 2 inches were soup.  The material underneath was soft but less slick.  The adhesion of the muck was tearing huge holes in the road.

When I got to the top of the grade I could see the extent of the flooding of the Paria River.

After waiting about an hour, I was able to partially ascend the grade enough to allow me to back down to a flat area.  After an extended discussion, we decided that the best course of action was to do nothing until the road dried out.  Kathleen discovered that we were close enough to the mouth of the canyon to have cell service, so I called the Kane County (UT) sherrif's office and advised them of our situation: "stranded, but not stuck; safe with sufficient supplies, no injuries; will advise status tomorrow".  At that, we settled in for a forced down-day.  After a couple of hours of just sitting in the cab, Kathleen felt like she had to do something so she took the shovel and attempted to drain the pond at the bottom of the grade.

We spent the balance of the day in the camper.  The outside temperature was in the 40's so it was cold.  And, the wind was still blowing strong.  It started sprinkling later in the afternoon, despite the forecast from weather.gov.  The night was cold and windy, but no rain.

The morning was bright and clear, but still windy and cold.  I took my camera and headed up the hill to assess the situation.  The Paria River had shrunk over night and some of the surrounding terrain was beginning to dry out.  Most of the patches of snow on the ridge lines had melted.

By noon, patches of tan were emerging in the mud.  The wind was still blowing hard, but that was good as the flow of air hastens the drying effect.

We headed back to the camper and decided that if conditions continue the same, by 3pm we would likely be able to exit without problems.  The photo above is the side canyon just behind our parking place.  Soon, a BLM employee came by in a side-by-side quad.  We talked at length and he agreed that waiting was the correct strategy.  He also felt that by 3 or 4pm it would be dry enough to make it to the top of the grade.

Our exit from the canyon was a bit anti-climactic.  We discussed reducing air pressure, but knew that was always an option, so an attempt with current pressure would save at least an hour of airing down then airing up.  Once we rolled, we rolled with impunity.  With low range, differential lock and 4x4 we went up the grade with no issues.  We continued on out to highway US-89 and stopped to notify the sheriff of our successful exit.  We also texted the BLM guy with a similar message.  The dark gray formation in the photo above is the evil Tropic Shale that had stopped our progress.

We headed west on US-89 toward Kanab, UT and came upon significant banks of snow on the south side of the highway.  We traveled until sundown and finally ended up in a parking lot in Mesquite, NV.  All the RV parks were full and we needed no services, so a parking lot was fine.  We had dinner at a casino restaurant and it was great.

After a pleasant night in Mesquite, we decided that breakfast out was a good idea.  The food was good, but the service time was excessive.  And, as a final insult, Thor had starting issues.  The starter stuck in the on position with the motor running full blast and smoking from heat.  We were able to resolve the issue by disconnecting the battery and attacking the starter motor with a breaker bar and a hammer.  The pounding was sufficient to reset the solenoid and allow a normal start.  After a hour of screwing around with the starter, we headed to Las Vegas and then on toward MogFest in Calico, our original destination for the previous day.  Along the way, we passed the Ivanpah Thermal Solar Plant.

The towers collect reflected sunlight from the acres of steerable mirrors and converts the heat into steam for turbines.

Further west we passed trucks working at the Mountain Pass Mine.

Quite a long trip for the day, but we finally arrived at Calico on Thursday night.  We were still a bit worried about the starter motor issue and we also discovered that one of the enhancements we had added to Thor had failed as well.  One of our hydraulic locks for the rear stabilizers had locked, fortunately in the up position.

Other campers started arriving later in the day, but our campsite was not on the main path so we missed seeing most of them.

Kathleen and I had been on the road for about 4 months and we were kind burned out.  We decided not to go on a trail run, but stay in camp.  Unlike Cottonwood Canyon, Calico was sunny and hot.  Later in the afternoon, we hiked up to Calico Ghost Town to take in the sights.  From one of the overlooks we could see the intense folding of the local strata.

The ghost town had plenty of artifacts including this steam-powered fire pump.

The story here is not the old buildings but rather the eroded volcanic strata behind the buildings.



Note the pockets and wind caves in the face of the rock.



A cheesy tourist photo.



While waiting for Kathleen I noticed an interesting pencil cholla bush.  This has both short and long needles.



We left to return to San Diego the following morning.  A parting shot of Calico with a view of some of the hardware than visits the camp.

The trip back to San Diego was filled with close-calls on the freeway.  I am amazed at how clueless folks are when they drive.  Happily, none of the close calls resulted in an "event".

We returned to discover that the house and cars were in fine shape, which has not always been the case.  Lucky us.  All told, excitement in the canyon notwithstanding, this was a great trip.  We were able to see our friends and family and visit new areas as well.


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